It’s worth trying a range of papers to see what fits your printing practice and studio / home conditions. They each have pros and cons so one printmaker might find one paper type better than a different person, so please keep that in mind. So, there we go, a roundup of some good paper options for hand printing linocuts. It will produce very nice prints if you burnish the print with enough force. The downside is that it’s about as thick a paper as I would recommend for hand printing. It comes in pads of a range of sizes so it’s ready to use when you buy it. Strathmore Printmaking 300 (120 gsm) - one thing that’s nice about this paper is it’s relatively easy to find in art stores and online. I’ve printed successfully with this paper on an etching press. Also, this is not to be confused with the 175 gsm option. Keep in mind that even though there are a couple neutral cream-ish colors, none are truly white, in my opinion. It takes a fair amount of pressure to get a solid print. An excellent, all-around high quality paper. Rives Lightweight (115 gsm) - is sold per sheet and comes in medium and large sizes. A little on the thicker side, but still produced a nice crisp impression. Good for proofing blocks.Īwagami Shiramine (110 gsm) - a new paper for me and I really liked it. I’ve used this on rare occasions over several years. Yasutomo Sumi-E Painting Sketch Paper (71.5 gsm) - this is an inexpensive white paper that prints well and comes in pads. The paper is a little more see-through than the thicker papers like Rives Lightweight.
Beautiful, neutral pH paper that’s competitively priced but thinner than I usually use.Īwagami Mingeishi (45 gsm) - comes in three different colors and in larger sizes than many other attractive options. Kitakata (30 gsm) - a delicate tan paper that comes in 16” x 20” sheets. They crease easier, frustratingly, and if you’re too rough when burnishing your prints little bits of the paper can slough off the back. But, you have to be a little more careful with them because they’re thinner. The lightest papers will be easiest to print consistently by hand. Very generally speaking, lighter / smoother paper will produce more consistently crisp prints with less effort by hand than heavier / rougher paper. Some paper is extremely smooth, while other paper has a more rough handmade feel. Some paper is of such odd sizes I just don’t feel like it’s much use to me. Make sure the paper is a good size for your prints to reduce the amount of wastage. Paper comes in all sorts of sizes and is sold by the sheet or in a pad. Some papers are not nearly as truly white as others! Paper Size I’m reviewing neutral color papers than range from white to tan. Here’s a good glossary that defines technical paper terms like acid free, neutral pH and sizing.
#Josei moku hanga to free#
Paper AcidityĪ final print you care about should be printed on acid free paper that will ensure it will last a lifetime, give or take.
To give you a frame of reference for paper weight, I grabbed my pack of inkjet printer paper and it says it’s 75 gsm. I would say, though, that those two papers are probably my favorites when printing on a press. You’ll want to avoid really thick paper like Stonehenge (250 gsm) or Rives BFK (250 gsm) when printing by hand, in my opinion. Say, between 30-120 gsm, though this is not a hard and fast rule. Importantly, if you’re printing by hand instead of a press, you’ll probably want a light to light-medium weight paper. The higher the GSM the heavier the paper. When you shop you’re going to notice a term on the package or product listing called, “GSM.” This stands for grams per square meter and is a measure of a paper’s weight. A Paper’s GSMĬhoosing a paper of the right weight is really helpful for printing linocuts, woodcuts or rubber blocks by hand. I’ll also provide some specific recommendations. But I’m going to give you suggestions on what to look for in paper to help guide you. So, I don’t think there is necessarily a perfect paper for hand printing. There are so many different types of paper to choose from and what you have available will partially depend on where you live. If you were to ask me what block printing ink I think is the best, I would give you a couple suggestions and feel pretty confident that it will work for you. What to Consider When Choosing a Paper for Hand Printing
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